Here is the long awaited part 2 of the Star Lord build write up!  Last we left off, I had made a mold of the rough sculpt.  I cast one pull from it out of polyurethane resin.  Now I have a basis to work from.  I started with one of the more difficult pieces, the mouth.  I started by drawing out the pattern on a thin sheet of polystyrene plastic, cutting that out with a scroll saw and cleaning it up with various tiny files.  Then I adhered that to some car stock to hold all of the tiny pieces together and in a uniform shape.

Next step was the eyes and brow areas.  I used 1.5 in diameter pvc for the eyes and beveled the edges For the brow piece, I used a 1/2 inch thick piece of pcv foam plastic and heat formed it to shape.  I used 1/4 inch pcv foam plastic for the pieces around the eyes and then filled in the gap underneath with bondo.  For the indent bridge of nose thing, I just cut that shape out and backed it with plastic then filled the gaps with bondo.

For the panels on the forehead I used strips of the thin plastic for a nice clean edge and then filled the in between with bondo.  I used the same method for the back as well.  To get the curved angles I cut smaller pieces and followed a guide line I made with a pen.  Then I filled with bond and sanded it to make it nice and rounded.  I spray painted with brown primer and sanded it to see my low spots and filled where needed.

For the fluting in the back, I used some duct tape to find my shape, patterned it out on paper and then cut the stripes out of the very thin plastic.

For the cheeks I made a vector file previously and used that to get my shape right on the original rough sculpt, so that way I new this would fit.  That way I could print out the vector file on vinyl and get the subtle circuit pattern on the cheek plates.  For the tube bits I used tooling foam and shaped it on a lathe.  The foam is super dense and easy to carve, but most importantly it has a consistent density through out unlike wood.  I made a mold of the cheek tube bits to avoid having to lathe 6 identical pieces.

I lathed out the cylinder piece and molded it so that I could have two identical pieces.  For the texture on the opening, I used a textured sheet that I bought from a hobby shop meant for model train sets.

For the chin I stacked sheets of plastic, glued them together and then sanded it to the desired shape.  Then I layered some of the super thin plastic, this time pink, to get the indentation.  For the numerous tubes and pipes, I used 3 different diameters of acrylic rods and then heated them up with a heat gun and pressed them into to jigs that I made.  Again I made a mold so that both sides would be identical.

For the ears I stacked more plastic sheets together and then a thinner layer on the top to get the machine line details.  I didn’t make a mold for these, as it was much easier to replicate them.  I just taped both sides together with double sided tape when I cut out the shape on the scroll saw, and then sanded them down while still taped together.

After all the pieces were glued on, gaps filled with bondo, I primed it up and sanded it until I had a nice finish.  Priming and sanding also helps you find any low spots or gaps that you might have missed.  I planned to ad the cylinders after, having them as a separate piece, so I created a ledge for them with plastic, this way it’s easy to adhere them on the final helmet.

Once I was satisfied, and after countless hours of sanding, it was time to mold it up.  To make things easy for clean up, I wanted to do this in a two part brush on silicone mold and have my seam lines hidden on an edge.  I started on with the back, after letting that set over night, I flipped it over and did the other side.  After letting that side set over night, I made a fiber glass mother mold just like in the first part of the build with the rough cast of the helmet.  I made sure that the opening was perpendicular to the opening of the silicone, the idea being to get a better seal and secure the mold when casting.  When I took it apart, I had a bit of trouble with the silicone on one of the seam lines.  I put on a ton of release but i must not have put enough on the one side, so the seam was not perfect.  There was still very little clean up to do regardless of the one seam.

The cheek plate circuit detail could have been a little more defined but it’ll do.  All in all, this piece came out great.  It took me two pulls to figure out the right ratio of silicone and layers.  Next step painting!

I hope you’ve enjoyed part 2 of the build write up.  Click here for part 3!